Magic: The Gathering formats, explained

One of the best things about Magic: The Gathering is that there’s no single way to play. A format defines which cards you can use and how you build your deck. But before the formats, it helps to be clear on the basic rules — which change depending on whether you play one on one or multiplayer.

Rules that apply to every game

Your turn, phase by phase. Untap your cards → draw 1 card → main phase (you can play 1 land per turn and cast spells) → combat → second main phase → end of turn.

Timing (when you can play each thing). Creatures, sorceries, artifacts and enchantments can only be cast on your turn with an empty stack. Instants (and cards with flash) can be cast any time, even during your opponent’s turn. We cover this in the card types guide.

Abilities (what the text box actually does). Flash up there is a keyword: one word standing in for a whole paragraph of rules. Knowing which kind of ability you’re looking at — activated, triggered or static — is what tells you whether your opponent can respond to it, and every keyword in the game is listed in the Magic keywords glossary.

From here on, life totals and the mulligan depend on the kind of game.

Constructed rules (one on one)

• Players: 2, one on one.
• Life: you start with 20. If you drop to 0 or below, you’re out.
• Mulligan (London rule): you draw a hand of 7 cards; if you don’t like it, shuffle, draw 7 again and put 1 card on the bottom of your deck for each mulligan you’ve taken. In 1v1, the first mulligan already costs you 1 card.
• Other ways to lose: if you have to draw and your deck is empty, you lose; and if you reach 10 poison counters (through the infect or toxic abilities), you die no matter how much life you have.

Commander rules (multiplayer)

Commander is usually played multiplayer, and that changes several rules:

• Players: usually 3 or 4 (multiplayer). Last one standing wins.
• Life: you start with 40.
• Mulligan: works like Constructed, but since it’s multiplayer the first mulligan is free: you put no cards on the bottom. From the second one on, you do put 1 card per mulligan. (1v1 Commander gets no free mulligan: there, the first one already counts.)
• Commander damage: if a single commander deals you 21 combat damage over the game, you die even with life to spare.
• Other ways to lose: the usual ones: life to 0, empty deck or 10 poison.

The two families of formats

• Constructed: you bring a deck built beforehand. Minimum 60 cards, at most 4 copies of any card (except basic lands) and an optional sideboard of up to 15 cards to adjust between games.
• Limited: you build the deck on the spot from booster packs you open right there. Minimum 40 cards. No collection needed — everyone starts from scratch.

Now, one format at a time.

Standard

What it is: the format with the newest cards, only sets from the last three years. It rotates: from 2027 on, the oldest sets leave with the first set of the calendar year. Here’s which sets are legal today and when the next rotation is.

Rules: constructed (60+ cards, max. 4 copies, 20 life, 1v1).

For beginners: picture a league where you can only sign players from the last few seasons. It’s the freshest, cheapest format to start with.

Pioneer

What it is: cards from the Return to Ravnica set (2012) onward. It doesn’t rotate.

Rules: constructed (60+ cards, max. 4 copies, 20 life, 1v1). Your deck never expires.

For beginners: like Standard, but keeping everything from the last decade. Many more possible strategies.

Modern

What it is: a huge pool of cards, from the 8th Edition / Mirrodin era (2003) up to today.

Rules: constructed (60+ cards, max. 4 copies, 20 life, 1v1). There’s just a banned list.

For beginners: a library spanning over twenty years. Decks are highly tuned and games are fast — you can win or lose by turn 3-4.

Pauper

What it is: the format that only allows common cards (the black-symbol ones, the easiest to get).

Rules: constructed (60+ cards, max. 4 copies, 20 life, 1v1), but no uncommon, rare or mythic cards.

For beginners: a “low cost” league. Everyone plays with cheap cards, so the winner is whoever plays best, not whoever spends most.

Legacy and Vintage

What it is: practically all of Magic’s history is in play. These are the most powerful formats.

Rules: constructed (60+ cards, 20 life, 1v1). Legacy uses a banned list. Vintage allows almost everything, but restricts the most broken cards to 1 copy per deck.

For beginners: this is where the most expensive, monstrous cards live. Spectacular, but the priciest corner — not where you start.

Commander (EDH)

What it is: the flagship format for group play. It changes several rules compared to the rest (see “Commander rules” above).

Rules:

• A deck of exactly 100 cards, all different (singleton): 1 copy of each, except basic lands.
• You pick a commander: a legendary creature that leads from a separate zone and sets the color identity of your whole deck (only cards in its colors).
• 40 life, multiplayer, and commander damage (21 = death).

For beginners: the epic kitchen-table game with friends. Everyone runs a unique 100-card deck built around “their” character.

Limited: Draft and Sealed

What it is: formats where you build the deck on the spot from packs, with no prior collection.

Rules: minimum deck of 40 cards. You can add as many basic lands as you want.

• Sealed: open 6 packs and build a 40-card deck from whatever you get.
• Draft: in a group, everyone opens a pack, takes one card and passes the rest; repeat until the packs run out. Then you build your deck from what you drafted.

For beginners: everyone starts from scratch, so skill wins, not your wallet. The best way to learn a new set.

So which one do I pick?

• Start cheap and current → Standard or Pauper.
• Play with your group of friends → Commander.
• Variety without spending every year → Pioneer or Modern.
• An afternoon of packs with no collection → Draft or Sealed.